You can
smell the rain in the air, fresh and sharp and cleansing. For hours, thunder
has been growling out of the north east, then all around us, growing closer and
closer but still no deluge.
The cycle way along the Loire is part of a much longer route - the Eurovelo 6 - which stretches almost 4,000 km from the Atlantic seaboard to the Black Sea |
When the
deluge arrives, it will fall on modern day pilgrims – not of the religious
kind, but pleasure seeking 21st century cyclists all making their
own personal journeys along the Loire, one of Europe’s great waterways.
Already we
feel we are participants on that journey, adding to the current folklore. This
morning we were addressed by one of two aging cyclists as we paused at a rest spot
at Chalonnes-sur-Loire,”Hello, you are from New Zealand, you were at St Malo
and you are on your way to Constanta" (actually, we have Istanbul in mind).
Early morning glimpse of the Loire |
When we
looked surprised that a total stranger knew so much about us, he said he’d been
told to look out for the Kiwis on a tandem by some friends of his – ten of them
– that we’d met along the way. The fact that we couldn’t recall this group of
ten says something about the volume of cyclists on the Loire, and the number of
encounters we are having.
A little
later – when we stopped for coffee – another French cyclist, a young man this
time, addressed us. “You had a bad night – lots of mosquitoes at your
campsite.” Word travels fast on the Loire.
The mozzies were so bad at one campsite we fled to this sanctuary for dinner and breakfast the next day. |
As for our
own pilgrimage, it is everything we expected only better. The rain and cold and fields of crops and
cows of Brittany have given way to sunshine and grape vines, row after
row, and quaint villages that seem permanently asleep. Wild flowers burst from
stone walls and carefully cultivated roses, lavender and rosemary are in every
garden. Everywhere is the Loire - from cycle path panorama to snatched glimpse from a village square.
And just when we think we’ll
never find our morning café crème, a tiny café/bar/restaurant comes into view
and we sit outside in the sun. Afterwards, we leave the bike where it is, safe
in the knowledge that no-one is going to rifle through our panniers while we
visit a mediaeval church a few paces away – this morning’s example in
Savennieres was cool and dark and had a quietening effect on us and a small
group who entered with us.
Crossing the Loire for the first time. The cycle route switches from side to side. |
If it all
sounds idyllic, it is – except for one thing: navigation. It is primarily
Judy’s task as I seem to have my hands full simply keeping El Beastie on the
road. But her view from the Stoker’s (rear) seat is partially obstructed by my
back and sometimes directions come too late for me to act. We have a
communication breakdown. It is something familiar to most couples travelling by
car in unfamiliar territory, and it is something we figure that together we can
improve.
Right now
though, we are snug inside our tent and that thunder is still rumbling. Rain on
a corrugated iron roof touches some primal instinct –shelter from the storm. It
sounds even better in a tent, and we are waiting expectantly.
Post script: Apart from a couple of showers overnight, the rain never arrived.
Judy the
Stoker says … the cycling near the Loire is so different compared to moving along the small roads of Dorset and Brittany. So much is set up for cyclists here - tiny paths a couple of metres wide with stone houses built on the verge, turnstiles providing access to cyclists and walkers only, cobblepath paths. The route is so well marked, directing us through small villages and occasional, quiet back roads along the Loire.
Whilst we can pick up speed in places, mostly it is an obligatry amble, stopping often to see the sights.
Bridge at la Possonniere and (right)boats on the newly rebuilt quay. |
The many spanned old stone bridge and new quay area at la Possonniere, the church at Savennieres, a Mediterranean garden set beside the Loire - but most of all the stunning roses growing igh over the rock wall fences in the villages, old rambling roses dripping from hedges along the tiny roads and other, colourful flowers lining the route. We've slowed down to a potter.
I have been disconbobulated though by shearing off a quarter of my molar crown and now am
hunting a dentist!
Quotable
Quotes
Judy: “ I’m
going to lose some weight. But first I’m going to have this beer.”
Yo and the bro, If judy's the stoker I guess that makes you chief engineer Mike :) Loving the blog and photo's, can almost smell the roses!!Hope you are breaking in the Beast of B. take care out there on the Rd
ReplyDeleteThanks Mark, hope all good your end. We are having a day off and it's just stated raining. GGuess that means the washing won't dry.
DeleteThe navigation problems take me back! Sounds idyllic except for the mozzies...be happy you're in sunshine and warmth - getting colder and wetter here.
ReplyDeleteJen and Paul
Thanks Jen and Paul, the mozzies really are ferocious. Fortunately not everywhere. Worst was when we stopped in a forest when a front pannier fell off. They just swooped, and we were so distracted twe didn't realise how bad they were til it was too late. Still sufering days later.
DeleteSo glad your new notebook is letting you document your trip! and dorset just got a mention
ReplyDeletebest wishes
Aaron
Curry's Pc World Megastore - Poole
Thanks Aaron, all good here. Netbook's working a treat.
DeleteHi you two...found our France Atlas and spotted we joined Loire near Samur & drove it the other direction on opp bank to you! hope all's well, and we're loving the stories and pics.xx
ReplyDeleteThanks Lesley, yep we are having fun. Big changes in the wind at your end, Judy tells me. All best, sounds great. Love, Mike
Delete"It is something familiar to most couples travelling by car in unfamiliar territory" ... we're so laughing right now. We love to read your blog.
ReplyDelete